The Cell Awaba 2.0 has a pretty strudy looking alloy frame that looks like it can handle bike trailer hitches and pannier racks without a problem, so its with some confidence that it carries off towing our youngest and what can feel like our kitchen sink as well with it. I had to modify the hitch that it originally came with as it spun on the bike's thru axel with heavy braking and climbing: I welded an additional tab to the regular hitch so it could exploit the bike frame's sidestand mount on the brake disk side chainstay to prevent the hitch from rotating on the tightened thru axel.
Monday, November 02, 2015
Justifing the purchase of a new bike is always so much easier when you have secured the sale of older, less used rigs from the fleet. So the 2009 Specialized Epic and my 2007 Wilier Lavaredo were on the chopping block, to make room for something that seems to be the flavour of the moment, something to span that whole road/dirt thing - gravel grinders. With my only stipulation being Shimano full hydro disk brakes and at least Shimano 105groupset, the short list under that magical $3K (AuD) mark resulted in Specialized Diverge Comp.
Tuesday, October 28, 2014
Wednesday, October 01, 2014
Swapped out the offending broken rear derailluer. Not sure how 'backward compatible' current Shimano XT Deore Shadow derailluers are, considering its being mated to Shimano's Dual Controller shifters from '07.
So happy about the new cable entry point on the new derailluer. The previous set up had the cable having to do a complete 120degree turn in what was really not enough room.
Monday, September 15, 2014
Wednesday, August 14, 2013
· Quite a bit of travel in the brake lever required to clear the pads from the disk. Hard application sometimes brought the lever down against the handlebar. Any less travel on the lever left the pads dragging on the disk.
· Frequent wet/muddy riding caused wear, which required adjustment. Adjustment required bringing in the pads at each side of the caliper, but it wasn’t as straight forward as that. Sometimes, an initial adjustment, required fine tuning after a short ride – multiple times, through the evening, and into the night…..
Sunday, April 14, 2013
Wombat 100, rode the 50km in vets.
Loved the singletrack, hated the two-track & gravel rd climb.
Munched my drive chain between the cassette & rear hub on a long climb at about 34km mark, reverted to natures toolbox - a rock and a branch to put things right & get rolling again.
Loved the Magellan sprint section so much i rode it again on my ride back home after the event.
Ran into some 100kms tailenders who looked like thy were in a world of hurt at their 70km point. I don't think my little white lie that the worst was behind them was very convincing.
Sunday, April 07, 2013
Sunday, March 24, 2013
Strava stat for the ride.
Thursday, February 21, 2013
Shimano hydraulic brake mineral oil was about $35 sold in 1litres bottles. A re-bleed of both brakes would only use about 100mL thereabouts, so the investment in the full bottle would take a few years to recover. Lucky for me my Local bike shop fella could see the doubt in me set in as he handled the bottle & offered to pour me 200 odd mL into a separate container for $5 – phew.
I love working on Shimano hydraulic brakes; the pads come out & drop in easy, the pistons push out to accommodate new (thicker) pads without effort, the pistons retract well after application at the lever so the pads have room to back away from the rotating disk when it use (no dragging), & no special tools apart from the cassette tool for the centre lock rotors.
Back home, the bike is hoisted up on the (homemade) bike work stand, I pop the brake reservoir cap off & place a length of tube on the bleed nipple on the rear calliper, then i extract what I can of the oil in the reservoir & top it up with the new stuff. The existing oil is almost clear, where the new stuff is is blood red, not sure if this means anything. I open up the bleed nipple & pump the lever to draw the new oil down into the brake line, being careful not to empty the reservoir & draw air into the line (that’ll mean a long night if I did).
When I finished & could see the dark red oil coming out the clear tube connected to the bleed nipple on the rear calliper, I top up the reservoir, popped the reservoir cap back on, & removed the clear tube off the nipple. It’s at this point when I am removing the clear tube off the nipple on the calliper, that a stream of brake oil drained out all over the calliper. Sure I grab a rag & wipe it down but apparently that wasn’t enough.
Two days later it’s time to ride the Epic to work & then onto the dirt crits afterwards. As I get to the end of my alleyway the rear brake squeals something chronic & I realise that a good percentage of brake oil has affected the brake pad. I try to not worry about it & let it fix itself, but the whole trip into work it’s squealing, & even thought the lever is firm, it feels like I don’t have the kinda braking I was hoping for out back.
So come lunchtime I head back downstairs to suss out the brake & remove the pads with a multi-tool. The pads are pretty worn, but also pretty dark for oil contamination, so I opt out of refitting them & pick up some new pads for a CBD bike shop & bung them in.
Will be crossing the fingers as I roll off this evening...
Sunday, February 17, 2013
Way easier job than I originally thought & offered my services to a mate in a similar state with his forks. Although I must admit, it was pending a proper test ride to cover off the quality of my workmanship, and I'm happy to say they came off a treat. Things I found doing this job:
• Fork oil purchased from a motorbike sho 10wt. Volumes are easily found out on the web, just look for, "Fox forks oil volumes" surprisingly enough.
• Didn’t bother with the ‘Fox Fork Fluid’ in the air chamber (5mL), just replaced the oil bath in the spring & dampener sides.
• Old fork oil was white with water contamination, also was far less than the 150mL & 20mL volumes specc’ed in the service manual. I've never had these forks apart since I bought them new in 2009 (my Epic is the result of parts from various bikes & new parts).
• Forks remained on the bike, just inverted the bike & removed the lowers (2x nuts & a very slight tap of a plastic headed hammer). Oil volumes remained in the top part of the uppers & only drained out when I righted the bike over a container.
• New oil seals was pressed in using a wide plastic conduit pipe section, hammered in with the palm of my hand & finished with a tap from a block of wood.
Fox Forks RLC 32 F100 2008 - Oil volumes.
Dampner side, 10wt, 150mL
Spring side, 10wt, 20mL
Airchamber, Fox Float Fuild 5mL
The big difference was that dampening was far more pronounced & found that I had to back off the rebound & low comp a click or two, also the bounce wasn't as harsh as before, you could feel an easy cush in the first part of the travel which then progressively firmed really nicely.
Something else after the ride last Thursday night, I experienced a fair bit of ghost shifting & really should have looked into it as my Epic had been sitting idle for 6months after a batch of wet rides, which should always be followed by a review of all the cables (inners/outers). Also lost a 'bar end plug wacking a straight line through a curvy piece of trail, boo.
Friday, February 15, 2013
Nevertheless it was still racing & I think that bug has bitten once again....there's always next week...
Thursday, November 22, 2012
No problems with fork oil, as I still have 10wt fork oil form a previous change, although ‘Fox Float’ oil is a mystery to me (used in the air chamber 5ml), but Google tells me it’s just a form of synthetic gear oil.
Local distributer of Enduro fork seals : http://www.diymtb.com.au/static/conditions.asp
Time for the ring around.
Wednesday, November 21, 2012
To do it myself: apparently, locally Fox sourced parts are $59.99 for the pair (2x oil seals, 2x dust seals, 2x foam rings & cush washers). The alternative are Enduro Seals by ‘Real World Cycling’, http://www.enduroforkseals.com/id17.html , $25.99US. But shipping is another $30US on top of that which hurts.
I’ve previously replaced fork seals on a previous pair of RockShox SID Team forks with Enduro fork seals (I like the blue dust seals which make it look really ‘aftermarket racey’). Although I’m not sure if things have changed in the last 3years & it may be better to get it done local.
Just called Astroboy Racer (Paul) http://astroboyracer.com.au/ who quoted me under $150 for a full service (replace seals too) with about a days turnaround, hmm very tempting as time is impossible at the mo.
Have Westgate dirt crits pencilled in tomorrow for the first time this year (we’re in November) & a MTB ride up at my mum/dads next Monday, so I’ll just bite the bullet & see if Astroboy Racer can do them next week.
Tuesday, November 20, 2012
Saturday, November 17, 2012
So on my next chance out I sort to go where I have never been before, which pretty much was the east bank of the Yarra River, anywhere downstream of the Fairfield boathouse.
I doubled back & rode upstream from the pedestrian bridge at Yarra Bend park, on the east side of the river & came across some really nice single-track [sorry – walking trail]. I only did a short ride upstream here due to time constraints, & then rode back to the Capital city trail to loop back via the city to home again.
Endomondo Cycling Workout: was out cycling 39.55 km in 2h:01m:48s using Endomondo.
My intention is to suss out off-road trail between Yarra Bend Park upstream to Fairfield Boathouse, so I can string all this single-track together.
Some of the trails along here are too technical for me to really groove along on a bike like my Broadman CX Pro, even though it is possible to navigate it with some degree of dismount/carry/ride, in places, so I’m building up to putting in a fun hour of MTBing on my Specialized Epic (2009) soon.